kreuzberg neighborhood guide berlin germany chapter one westberlin companion five elephant 19 grams nano kaffee coffee cafe sprudge

Kreuzberg was once an island of West Berlin, enclosed on three sides by the Wall and mythologized for its world-famous street art, punk scene, and gangland underbelly. Today, it is arguably the cultural heart of the city. The geographically and spiritually wide-ranging Kiez is home to everything from anarcho co-ops and Bitcoin enthusiasts to steezy bars, clubs, and gourmet food markets. Full of surprises, Kreuzbergโ€™s rapid development includes an explosion of some of Berlinโ€™s best coffee over the last five years.

With new cafes opening all the time, this walking tour guides visitors from west to east of the sprawling neighborhood with pit stops at six of Kreuzbergโ€™s top coffee sites, plus food, drink, and cultural recommendations en route.

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westberlin

We start on Kreuzbergโ€™s northwestern border where Kreuzberg and Mitte were once divided by the Wall, an area recently captured in the heart-racing German film “Victoria”. Amidst this somewhat sleepy sea of offices and tourist attractions, westberlin stands as a lone coffee champion.

Recently celebrating its third birthday, westberlin is a bustling, spacious, laptop-friendly cafe that doubles as a “mediashop”, selling a gorgeous array of over 30 international and Berlin-based fashion, art, and culture magazines including Kinfolk and the Berlin Quarterly. Curated by German owner Kai Brรถer, this passion for design translates into the bright, sleek aesthetic of the cafe.

Under the seasoned guidance of coffee consultant April Melnick, who hails from Portland, Oregon, westberlin loyally serves Stockholmโ€™s Drop Coffeeย for espresso drinks, made on a La Marzocco Strada MP, as well as Berlinโ€™s Five Elephant for AeroPress and batch brewing. One of the few Berlin specialty cafesย with lunch menus, westberlin also offers plenty of sandwiches, salads, soups, and cakes.

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Whatโ€™s more, westberlin is a godsend for weary travelers on the tourist trail: the iconic east-west border crossing Checkpoint Charlie is visible from the cafeโ€™s huge glass-front, while the Jewish Museum or the latest art exhibition at Martin-Gropius-Bau are just a short walk away.

westberlin is located at Friedrichstrasse 215. Visit itsย official website and follow the shopย on Facebookย and Instagram.

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Chapter One Coffee

Heading south towards the eclectic shopping strip of the Bergmannkiez, Chapter One Coffee is run by 2002 German Barista Champion and regular competition judge Nora ล mahelovรก and business partner Bjรถrn Kรถpke. The kindly pair met working at Schรถnebergโ€™s DoubleEye and opened Chapter One in late 2011, bringing quality coffee to the Kiez.

Walking in, eyes are immediately drawn to โ€œThe Golden Ladyโ€: a three-burner Bonmac Hikari Siphon Bar Table that takes pride of place on the counter and glows like E.T., illuminating the cafe, as the heated halogens dramatically kick to life. The first of its kind in Europe, The Golden Lady is part of Chapter Oneโ€™s wide offering of specialized coffees, which also include V60, Chemex, AeroPress, and Kalita Wave, as well as their La Marzocco Strada EP for espresso drinks.

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With two ever-rotating options for filter and one for espresso, beans are ground in micro-batches through a stream of local and international roasters, sometimes changing twice a day. Thereโ€™s always something new to try, plus bags to take home. On my last visit, popular German roasters JB Kaffee and Machhรถrndl stood alongside offerings from Swedenโ€™s Per Nordby and Athensโ€™ Taf Coffee.

Weekends see customers spilling out of the chequered-tiled cafe along the pavement, croissants in hand. Many wander to the nearby Marheinekeplatz, which hosts one of Berlinโ€™s many charismatic flea markets.

Chapter One Coffee is located at Mittenwalder Strasse 30. Visit their official website and follow them Facebook, Twitter,ย and Instagram.

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Nano Kaffee

Pass the swans and the idlers as you walk along the Landwehr Canal towards Kottbusser Tor, the center of Kreuzbergโ€™s strong Turkish community. To get a taste of the communityโ€™s vibrant multiculturalย melting pot, nip upstairs for a drink at the smoky Cafรฉ Kotti where old Turks, young students, backpackers, Germans, and ex-pats play chess and drink tea, beers, and Club-Mate.

Behind Kottbusser Tor youโ€™ll find Nano Kaffee, one of Berlinโ€™s newest Third Wave additions and a lovely spot to linger. The brainchild of Ramin Massah, Nano passionately showcases German roasteries such as Five Elephant, Bonanza, JB Kaffee, Playground Coffee, and Ernst Kaffeerรถster on a La Marzocco Strada EE, as well as international guests in the brew bar.

kreuzberg neighborhood guide berlin germany chapter one westberlin companion five elephant 19 grams nano kaffee coffee cafe sprudge

The warm, minimally designed cafe exudes industrial chic with white-white walls, raw steel counters, shelves, and tables, and wooden benches along the pavement, all crafted by Massah and a metalsmith friend. Only one year old, Nano has already established a solid reputation for quality and aims to become a community hub with regular โ€œBrew Upโ€ events inviting roasteries into the cafe and welcoming Berlin coffee geeks and noobs alike.

Nano Kaffee is located at Dresdener Strasse 14. Visit theย official website and follow Nano Kaffeeย on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

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Companion Coffee

Walk east along Oranienstrasse to stumble upon Companion Coffee. Hidden through a courtyard and inside the super trendy fashion concept store Voo, Companion occupies the mezzanine corner of the former locksmithery, and is fittingly kitted out with art/furniture from Sigurd Larsen and Frama. The cafe is run by the smiley duo of Canadian Shawn Barber and Australian Chris Onton, who met working as key baristas at Mitte institution The Barn.

The pair keep things pure and simple with a no-frills, high-quality focus on espresso drinks (only) from their Nuova Simonelli Aurelia T2 machine, and one grind at a time from an Anfim Super Caimano titanium grinder, setย up on aย concrete counter. Companion constantly rotates through European roasters with favorites such as UKโ€™s Notes and Swedenโ€™s Drop Coffee and Koppi among the 50โ€“60 which have appeared in the cafe since it opened in 2013.

A growing operation is the pairโ€™s venture into divine single-estate, ethically produced, direct-sourced teas under the Companion Tea label, which are served in shop and wholesaled across Berlin, appearing in many cafes on this list.

Companion Coffee is located at Oranienstrasse 24. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook,ย Twitter, and Instagram.

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To soak up the caffeine, Kreuzberg eateries run the gamut from grease to gourmet. Hasirโ€™s gluttonous dรถner tempts, as does Cocolo-Ramen X-bergโ€™s canal-side, classy bowls of ramenโ€”though perhaps most fun is had wandering Markthalle Neun, one of the cityโ€™s four remaining nineteenth-century market halls. Come for Street Food Thurdays (5 p.m.โ€“10 p.m.), where vendors hawk everything from tacos, Korean buns to hearty German Knรถdel, and fine coffee from Cafรฉ 9, plus cameos from Rรถststรคtte and 19 Grams.

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19 Grams

19 Grams is the Kreuzberg offshoot of Friedrichshain roastery Tres Cabezas, which lies on the opposite side of the river Spree.

Similar to Benjamin Pates and Namy Nosratifardโ€™s Concierge Coffee on Paul-Lincke-Uferโ€”another notable Kreuzbergerโ€”19 Grams is a hole-in-the-wall venture with limited seating that enjoys heavy foot traffic from tourists and office workers. While this translates to a predominantly on-the-fly trade and a focus on speed and quality, the mainly Australian baristas behind the La Marzocco Linea Classic machine do appreciate a chance to banter, so go on, say hi.

Named for the weight of a single shot of coffee, 19 Grams offers espresso and hot and cold filter coffees, using a range of Tres Cabazas single-origin beans and their velvety house blend “Wild At Heart”, as well as house-made pastries and savory croissants.

19 Grams is located at Schlesische Strasse 38. Follow them on Facebookย andย Twitter.

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Five Elephant

Last, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow: Five Elephant. With itsย single-origin, light roasts spreading their wings across Berlin and a growing international market, Five Elephant isย ambitiously striving to become the Berlin roastery, having rebranded and relocated operations a year ago from their old cafe into a distinct roastery space around the corner with new Swedish roaster Patrik Rolf Karlsson at the helm. Beans are directly sourced from Kenyaโ€™s Kamwangi Factory, El Salvadorโ€™s Chalatenango region, and more recently Brazilโ€™s Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza.

In the cafe, four roasts are served each for espresso and filter, while Five Elephant stays true to it roots as a bakery; the cafe is perhaps best described as a Berlin incarnation of an Austrian coffee house with an American twist. The cafe is particularly busy on weekends and during the cake rush hours of 3 p.m.โ€“6 p.m., with tables along the pavement of the leafy Reichenberger Strasse often full.

kreuzberg neighborhood guide berlin germany chapter one westberlin companion five elephant 19 grams nano kaffee coffee cafe sprudge

Inside, the soft-lit space feels carefully orchestrated; Five Elephantโ€™s old-world charm is heightened by vintage coffee-origin posters on the walls, large wooden tables, no Wi-Fi, and laptops allowed only in the back room. Customers lazily read newspapers or enjoy slow conversations as they tuck into banana bread, seasonal cakes, or the Philly Cheesecake, famous across Berlin. Pair it with a filter coffee prepared by one of the international team of baristas, and youโ€™ll be ready to call Kreuzberg home.

Five Elephant is located at Reichenberger Strasse 101. Visit their official website and follow them Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Annabel Brady-Brownย is a freelance journalist based in Berlin, writing for ExBerliner and more. Read more Annabel Brady-Brown on Sprudge.

Photos by Septimus Brope.

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