There’s an intrepid feeling to Croatia’s capital city. It’s a place where Nikola Tesla statues hulk in a plaza minutes from Michelin Guide-rated pizza destinations. An almost ethereal feeling lingers over the stoney streets, as downtown malls hum with shoppers beneath the cloudy skies. Zagreb, the country’s largest city and boasting a more than 900-year history, is one of the few places that truly must be witnessed to be believed.
Headed to Croatia for holiday is nothing new. According to the European Union tourism made up for 20 percent of the country’s GDP in 2021. Still, war ravaged Croatia through the 1990s, giving the world pause as genocide and violence ran through the region. There are seemingly countless museums strewn through the city, capturing all this history.
Zagreb is a place that must be witnessed since it is so much more than contentious lore. The coffee in the city alone makes that case. The all-day cafe so many Americans claim to crave, a place where a flat white sits across the page from a gin and tonic, lives free in Zagreb. Innovative drinks and sustainable cafe culture roar hugely in Zagreb.
And these are the five must-see cafes amidst all the city’s wonders.
Quahwa
The drinks at this tucked away hotspot are just about unmatched in Zagreb’s cafe scene. That’s no knock on the competition; There are few shops serving Bronhi lattes on the patio while the big Probat whirrs inside. The beans at Quahwa are the business’s own, but this all-day cafe is not inaccessible by any means. That Bronhi is a nostalgic Croatian toffee candy. It’s far from a heady, difficult sell.
Located back from the street and a block from that large Tesla statue, Quahwa is nested in the true heart of downtown. It’s a smart option for those with a mixed party looking to get fine coffees and something alcoholic at the same time. Hit this laid-back shop for pre-funking before criss-crossing the city’s swelling nightlife.
Filteraj
Few baristas in the capital city may have the unadulterated love for life radiating from Tobijas Kuleš. He’s the owner at Filteraj, both a top-tier cafe and refill station. Imagine a place for knockout flat whites that doubles as a one-stop-shop for vegan home goods and a place to take your empty laundry detergent bottles. That’s the concept. And it works.
Filteraj is a multi roaster, stocks Monada cola, Meiko matcha, and plant milks are made in-house. The design inside makes for perfect remote work and the small tables outside, with a premiere view of the Zagreb Cathedral, makes for platonic cafe culture enjoyment.
Cogito Coffee
Following a bit of a rubric for Zagreb specialty shops, this Varšavska cafe isn’t exactly in plain sight. Cogito is worth seeking out. The premiere shop, now with locations throughout the country including in Zadar and Dubrovnik, was one of the first Croatian specialty businesses roasting its own quality-focused coffee. Rock up for a flat white in one of the brightly colored cups and the Eastern European sun that pours through the windows.
This business’s influence in Zagreb is extensive and impactful. It’s not the first time Sprudge has covered Cogito, as examining the rise of Croatian specialty coffee means looking at the pioneer. Still, it remains a required visit for coffee lovers touring Zagreb.
Kavantura
Sitting on the edge of the Sava River is Kavantura, a less-hyped but no less wonderful cafe. It’s a veritable library of coffee products and beans. That makes sense since owner and founder Dejan Ganžulić (accent on z and c) was an AeroPress champion in 2018. This is no spot for slouches.
It’s worth pointing to the pastries here. The almond cardamom cookies would have the Kung Fu Panda leaping to the highest shelf once again in hopes of another taste. Fans return for the Kokolach goodies, all reasonably priced and indulgent as hell. These vegan, gluten-free, and sugar-free treats don’t compromise on taste. Plus, as is common fare throughout the city and country, having a smoke outside with that cookie as urban life whirrs by makes life all the more livable.
Paolo Bicchieri is a freelance journalist based in Seattle. Read more Paolo Bicchieri for Sprudge.
Photos provided by cafes unless otherwise noted. Top image by Paolo Bicchieri.
