In the northerly Beaujolais cru town of Juliรฉnas, the majority of wines produced in the appellation are sold in bulk to large nรฉgociant houses. But the 2016 vintage saw a panoply of ambitious natural winemakers try their hands at producing pure, quality-conscious Juliรจnas. The results begin to reveal what has for decades been lostโa picture of the cruโs storied hillside terroir.ย
A recurring refrain in my conversations with Beaujolais winemakers in recent years is the observation that a given cru zone has no Marcel Lapierre. Strictly speaking, no cru zone has a Marcel Lapierre, for the pioneering natural Morgon winemaker died in 2010. What these winemakers mean is that no winemaker of their cru has yet been responsible for launching its wine to cult status, as Lapierre was for his native cru of Morgon, and as one-time acolytes like Yvon Mรฉtras have become for neighboring Fleurie. The French term for such an estate is a “domaine phare,” a beacon domaine that leads the way for others.
The northerly cru of Juliรจnasโrenowned for its high, steep slopes, rich in a magmatic schist known locally as “blue stone”โhas no Marcel Lapierre. But since the 2016 vintage, Domaine Marcel Lapierre does have a Juliรจnas: the late winemakerโs successors, sibling winemakers Mathieu and Camille Lapierre, produced a Juliรจnas cuvรฉe from purchased grapes that year. They vinified the wine in partnership with newly-installed Beaujolais winemaker David Chapel, a longtime family friend who has also released his own debut wine from the parcel.
In fact, the Lapierres are just the most high-profile of a panoply of talented natural winemakers who produced excellent Juliรจnas wines in 2016, ranging from Fleurie rising-star Yann Bertrand to Juliรจnasโ own Louis-Clรฉment David-Beaupรจre. For drinkers seeking a new frontier of terroir-driven cru Beaujolais, it is as though a veil is being lifted from the cru, which for the past few decades has seen its historical esteem degraded by productivist agriculture, invasive vinification, and conservative bottling methods. These are, admittedly, the usual Beaujolais curses, rendered all the more lamentable in Juliรจnas by the soaring potential of the local terroir.
Domaine Lapierre and David Chapel purchase their Juliรจnas fruit from a south-facing parcel on the Cรดte de Bessay, a swelling, stony hill due north from the village of Juliรจnas, separating its eponymous appellation from that of neighboring Saint-Amour. Like the Juliรจnas appellation as a whole, the Bessay lieu-dit is a geological patchwork, alternating between blue stone, scree, veins of granite, and, unusually, sandstone.
โYou see, at least itโs not totally herbicided,โ says Chapel, gesturing down the slope from where weโve parked atop the Cรดte de Bessay.
There is a thick grass band amid the rows, extending halfway down the hill before stopping and resuming up several rows over. Weeds grow sparsely among the vines in the thin, rocky soil. Chapel explains that the relationship with the parcelโs owner is new, and it remains to be seen to what extent Chapel and the Lapierres will be able to convince him to adopt more organic viticultural practices.
From the vantage on the Bessay hillside, we can see the village of Juliรจnas and, further south, the wooded north face of the Col de Durbize, separating Juliรจnas and Chรฉnas from Fleurie. To the east, the landscape flattens out as it approaches Saint-Amour, whereas to the west are a succession of steep slopes leading to the adjacent towns of Julliรฉ and Vaux. In that direction lies the majority of the appellationโs prized “blue stone,” which soil also underpins Morgonโs famed โCรดte du Pyโ and much of the Cรดte de Brouilly appellation.
โHere, the soil changes slightly, all the way down,โ Chapel notes, pulling weeds as he walks. We descend halfway down the parcel before returning to the car, where his wife, the American sommelier Michelle Smith-Chapel, opens a bottle of the Chapelsโ inaugural 2016 vintage. The wine is a glowy translucent scarlet, a hallmark of unfiltered Gamay vinified the Lapierre way: cool carbonic maceration without much pumping over or punching down.
Because natural vinification is, above all, a return to the additive-free winemaking that was common before the 1980s, it makes no sense to speak of who made the first natural Juliรจnas. But the Lapierre-style vinification feels new in Juliรจnas in 2017. It heralds the arrival of a lighter, juicier aesthetic, one of debatable typicity in Juliรจnas, where the wines, historically, have been celebrated for their relative power and tannicity.
Natural winemaker Rรฉmi Dufaitre, based a 30-minutes drive south near the Brouilly cru, has had a few tries vinifying natural Juliรจnas. He released his first Juliรจnas back in 2014, from a pink-granite-soiled parcel of just under two hectares he farms in the village of Pruzilly, in the steep western slopes of the appellation. When I call him in August, heโs preparing to bottle his 2016 vintage.
โBecause itโs a bit austere, a bit hard, weโre obliged to do a longer รฉlevage to reveal the fruit,โ he says in his characteristic semi-intelligible growl.
Fleurie winemaker Yann Bertrand, who produced his first cuvรฉe of Juliรจnas in 2016, reports similar experiences with a similar vinification styleโdespite sourcing his grapes at the opposite end of the Juliรจnas appellation, in the flat, clayey vineyard of โEn Riziรจre,โ near the border with Saint-Amour.
โItโs above all the terrain that gives it much more structure than what we know on the deeper sands of Fleurie and Morgon,โ he says.
In acknowledging the peculiar muscularity of Juliรจnas’ terroir, natural winemakers like Dufaitre, Lapierre, and Bertrand are in a rare point of agreement with the old-guard of qualitative conventional winemakers native to Juliรจnas, such as Michel Tรชte, Vincent Audras, and Pascal Granger. Granger, a bespectacled former mechanic, is the most unabashed proponent of heavy, extractive wines from Juliรจnas.
โWe can make wines that are normally more powerful than the other crus,โ he affirms.
Grangerโs house style includes long, Burgundian-style fermentation on starter yeasts, with full de-stemming and pigeage.
โI like those toasty, buttery notes,โ Granger adds, revealing a cheerfully anachronistic palate. โJuliรจnas, on the good terroir, itโs made for the wood.โ
Even winemakers of wildly different tastes agree that Juliรจnas possesses a capacity for richness. The other thing uniting producers of Juliรจnas is almost none are farming with organic certification. The exception is a Juliรจnas vigneron with too many hyphens, Louis-Clรฉment David-Beaupรจre, the thoughtful proprietor of the certified-organic Domaine David-Beaupรจre in the southeastern lieu-dit of โLa Bottiรจre.โ
On the evening I visit in late July, the house where he vinifies is rented to a troop of opera singers, who as we taste are stationed in a semi-circle around a swimming pool in the middle distance, warbling a celestial version of โLet It Be.โ
โI donโt have many points of reference because Iโm not a son of a vigneron,โ he says. โIt was a series of chance meetings that brought me to natural wine.โ
Ten years into his career as a winemaker, David-Beaupรจre is still refining his approach. In 2017, he refrigerated the harvest before vatting, aiming for cooler, less extractive fermentation. In this, heโs following the example of Jean-Louis Dutraive, Yann Bertrand, Remi Dufaitre, as well as, of course, Morgonโs Domaine Lapierre.
โBut I never manage to make wines as immediate as Yann [Bertrand],โ professes David-Beaupรจre. โMine always need another year or two. And decanting is obligatory.โ
In the meantime, in his 2016 young-vine โLes Trois Verresโ Juliรจnas, he has succeeded in drawing out the sunnier, more fleet-footed side of the adjacent deep-clay terroir of โLa Bottiรจre.โ
The opera singers by the pool have moved on to Simon & Garfunkel and the sun has begun to set over the western hills when a diminutive older lady joins us at the picnic table where we sit. Itโs David-Beaupรจreโs grandmother, who asks me what Iโm doing in the Beaujolais.
โIโm writing a book on its wines,โ I reply.
โThatโs good,โ she says. โThere are so many prejudices about the Beaujolais. It experienced a sort of devaluation, we donโt know why.โ
โYes we do,โ David-Beaupรจre interjects.
โBecause vignerons didnโt work the way that should have,โ says his grandmother solemnly.
โNo,โ counters her grandson, shaking his head and refilling our glasses. โItโs that we didnโt highlight the vignerons who worked well.โ
Remi & Laurence Dufaitre – Juliรจnas 2016 (Jenny & Franรงois Imports)
Domaine David-Beaupรจre – Juliรจnas โLes Trois Verresโ 2016 (Sacred Thirst Selections)
Domaine David Chapel – Juliรจnas 2016 (Grand Cru Selections)
Les Bertrand – Juliรจnas 2016 (Paris Wine Company)
Domaine Lapierre – Juliรจnas 2016 (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
Aaron Ayscough (@a_ayscough)ย is the author of the wine blogย Not Drinking Poison In Paris.ย His writing about wine and restaurants has appeared in The Financial Times, The New York Times: T Magazine, andย Fantastic Man.ย Read more Aaron Ayscough on Sprudge Wine.ย
Photos courtesy of the author.ย