Let’s start with a basic fact: coffee begins life as a fruit, and the sequence of events this fruit goes through before reaching its final roasted product is impactful. Coffee processing doesnโt often make it into over-the-counter discussions about coffee sourcing, but itโs a very important part of the flavor profile of your cup.ย Like anythingโwine, music, or falling in loveโonce you know how it’s done, you appreciate the finished product more.
Coffee processing is a catch-all term that used to describe the various different processes by which the fruitโthe sweet, fleshier outer part of the coffee cherry that most coffee drinkers sadly never get to tasteโfrom the seed inside the fruit, which is shipped around the world and roasted (much to our collective delight here at Sprudge). One such style of processing is called “natural processing”, in which a coffee cherry is passively dried to separate seed from the pulp. Over the years, this natural processing method, which has been used for thousands of years and has a spiritual home in Ethiopia, has been seen as a lesser method of coffee production to a roast-ready bean when compared to washed processes, a much more modern method of using water to “wash” the fruit off the seed. Washing, the thinking goes, yields a cleaner and more balanced cup, with fewer defects.
But there are distinct benefits and lots of exciting aspects to the natural drying process that make it interesting and desirable. The method is increasingly en vogue in coffee growing regions outside of Ethiopia, where progressive coffee producers are thinking outside of the box and, in some ways, getting back to a more ancient method of coffee processing. And they’ve been greatly encouraged in their efforts by various progressive green coffee buyers, including both importers and direct emissaries from some of your favorite coffee companies.
One such emissary is Timothy Hill, a green buyer and die-hard natural process aficionado who buys coffee on behalf of our longtime friends & partners atย Counter Culture Coffee.ย Tim Hill delivered a lecture on the past, present, and future of natural process coffee at the New York Coffee Festival this past weekend, in a talk titled “Unnatural”. During this speech, Hill spoke of the current state of the natural processing practices, and gave hopeful encouragement for the method’s future, thanks to efforts from coffee producers to improve quality and consistency.
We sat down with Hillย before his presentation to talk about the current state of natural process coffees around the world, from how theyโre achieved to how theyโre considered. These days, natural coffees have never tasted better, due in no small part to the work of Tim Hill and others in his field, so drink up.
So, first off, could you describe natural processing in an approachable way?
I alwaysโand maybe itโs an unfair comparison to wine or other beveragesโbut in my head, I really do look at natural processing as akin to red wine, where youโre taking in more of the skin and whole product itself into the beverage. With white wine, youโre leaving the skin and the tannins out, and I think thatโs a good way to think about natural coffees. With the natural processing, youโre letting the fruit and the nutrients from the skin and the sugars go into the seed through the drying process. With the washed process, youโre washing it clean so you donโt get those flavors in there.
So the seed’s actually imbued with the qualities of the fruit?
Yea, absolutely.
Are there other benefits besides flavor profile differences?
I think weโre just at the forefront of really thinking about what naturals are and how we can make naturals better. The way we think about natural processing now is very rudimentary; natural processing really hasnโt changed. Washed processing has changed a lotโthereโs new equipment, new machines, new technologies that have really changed over the last 60โ70 years. Natural processing is still very low technology; a much more kind of a rustic process. What Iโll talk about today includes thinking about natural coffees and how to make those way better than they currently are.
As sort of a natural, low-impact process, is it more approachable for growers? I assume thereโs give-and-takeโฆ
The cost setup for natural coffees is extremely low. We [Counter Culture] have a project in Ethiopia, weโre working with about 18 growers that have sizable farms (compared to the average), and weโre starting to separate their coffees and work with them on really high-end products. We started working with them under natural context because the setup cost is extremely lowโyou donโt have to have a pulper, concrete, the machinery, electricity to run itโif youโre running a pretty large-sized farm. The labor and how to do it right is really tough. So it definitely is easy to take on; itโs really hard to do well. And so I think thatโs where coffee buyers areโand rightfully soโtrepidatious about recommending a producer do natural coffees.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but my understanding is that fermentation is a little bit more of an issue with natural processing. Is that true?
Theyโre fermented. Youโd be lying to yourself if you donโt think that thereโs some fermentation happening and being incorporated into the coffee itself. The question is, how much of that is a problem? What are the things we associate with bad fermented natural coffees, and what do we associate with good fermented coffees? Back to red wine: they pull in more tannins from the skinโthatโs a given, that just happensโthatโs the nature of the product. How much of thatโs bad, how much of thatโs good? Where is that balance between what we like and donโt like?
Is natural processing it being adapted in any sort of recognizable trend?
I think in the specialty market itโs an easy way for producers and countries that havenโt produced really high-end specialty naturals to put themselves on the map, especially for someone thatโs willing to experiment. On paper, itโs technically prohibited in some countries, for the reason that, in general, natural coffees have been considered lower grade. So government agencies have set up policies to ensure that their farmers get the maximum for their money and said natural coffees are prohibited. Rwanda and Burundi are like that. We do natural Rwandan and Burundian coffees and we export those coffees differently; weโve basically gotten verbal agreement from the exporting board of the countries to do these coffees. But there are a lot of reasons not to do it, and even governing agents within coffee-producing countries are nervous about doing it.
Is natural processing seeing a little more of a resurgence now?
I think so.
Are specialty customers who are discerning about exploring coffee bringing it more to the forefront or is this not necessarily retail-driven?
I think it is retail-driven and I think natural coffees tend to be very polarizing coffees. But, to a certain extent, polarizing can be really great. The first coffee that got me really interested in specialty coffee was a natural coffee. For a lot of coffee people, itโs the first time you taste something and those flavors really stand out as drastically different than what youโre normally tasting in a coffee. So it tends to be this โah-haโ moment; a snapshot of, โThereโs a lot of information behind this that I donโt quite understand; what is creating this?โ So, in that context, I think that coffee buyers for the last 10โ15 years have been asking farmers to test it out and experiment, see what they can do to make it good. To a certain degree, a lot of those coffees, in my opinion, have been pretty poor, and I see a lot of really poorly processed natural coffees out in the marketplace. Itโs that give and take of whoโs asking for it, who can do it wellโฆ
So are best practices sort of getting out there and getting aroundโฆ or is that your mission?
The talk Iโll give today is a lot about what we have found works really well; the science behind what has worked. We have a methodology for looking at natural coffees in a very different way, but the reality is that if you look at natural coffees, I agree with much of the specialty community that a lot of them are really poor; a lot of them are poorly processed. Where I disagree is that I feel like thereโs this blanket statement of, โOh, that flavor in coffee is just not a good flavor.โ For me, I get really excited about things that can be better. I look at natural coffees, and at the physical prep of natural coffees as a baseline for how well theyโre produced. In general, theyโre much poorer than washed coffees. And for a long time, I thought, โMaybe natural coffees just canโt meet the same standard that washed coffees have.โ And in the last two years, weโve actually seen natural coffees come in better physically prepared than washed coffees from the same producer, which is a milestone for Counter Culture thatโs never really happened before. We had natural coffees that we were scoring and appreciating at a higher level than the washed coffees from the same producer.
Thatโs exciting.
Yea, very exciting for us.
So, the process: does it lend itself to certain environments?
I would say yes and no. I think that there are certain places itโs a lot easier to do, but you can use Ethiopia as a really good example of extreme climate difference between the places that are producing natural coffees. In the south, you have a pretty wet environment during harvest; itโs not always dry. In Burundi, where we do a lot of natural coffees, it rains a lot. You just have to take extra precautions to protect those coffees and make sure theyโre going to be produced really well. Thereโs probably a few places in the world that it would be really, really hard to produce a natural coffee well, but I think that for the most part, you can produce natural coffees that are good anywhere.
Does the natural processing in various geographies affect the end product?
Oh yeah.
The flavors are going to turn out differently?
Yea, absolutely. One thing that Iโll talk about a little later today is we generally only buy natural coffees from Africa. And itโs not because their climate is so drastically different than other places in the world; a little bit of it comes from the perceived acidity from the coffee. One thing that we realized when weโre looking for a really good, naturally processed coffee is we want the acid to balance with the fruit and the sweetness. Natural coffees inherently have more sugar content than washed coffees; theyโre pulling that in from the fruit and the skin. To a certain extent, a table grape analogy is probably even better than wine in this context. As a fruit ripens, it gets more and more sugar content. The acids diminish, the sugars increase; weโre recommending coffees that are grown at really high elevations that have a higher actual acidity and perceived acidity to them to cut through the sweetness of that coffee to create a better-balanced product. And because they have less sugar, theyโre less prone to ferment.
So thereโs a lot going for those coffees in that region.
Absolutely.
Iโd like to talk a little bit about the environmental-friendliness of natural processing. Asย people become more conscientious about water usage, are we going to see an increase in natural process coffees?
Well…thatโs a good question. I donโt know. If you look at Brazil, probably most of their coffees are natural. I think it would be really scary if the world all of the sudden decided, โWe want nothing but washed Brazilian coffees.โ I know that washed coffeesโor what they call โpulped naturalโ in Brazilโare getting more popular, so theyโre using more water to create their coffees. In my mind, where a lot of our thought process is going is to actually create a washed process that requires no water. I donโt think the โwashingโ process actually requires water, but thatโs a good question.
For people who are really worried about environmental friendliness, is there a reason to seek out natural coffees? Or are we talking about the difference being negligible?
I do think that if you are really environmental and really pushing for that, you might seek out natural coffees. Ethiopia is a place that I see very poor water filtration and management of the waste water coming from the washing stations.ย I would probably just push coffee roasters to actually implement really good practices at those places for the washed coffees as well, but right now I would call [naturals] environmentally conscientious because of their water usage in these places.
Does scarcity play into this at all? Are customers buying in?ย
Oh yes. For me, natural coffees are a larger project Iโm currently working on for Counter Culture, in the context of getting them to a much better grade. I think the coffees we carry right now are really good, I think a few of them are processed exceptionally. But [naturals] still have a really long way to go to rival their washed counterparts in terms of processing. Probably 90% of our coffees are washed coffees, but I can see it increasing as supply of really great natural coffees becomes available. Our customer demand is higher than our ability to output great natural coffees.
Do you see an overall trend in improving the quality of natural coffees? Is it a slow growth? Is it no growth? Are people trying it and are theyย still getting the hang of it and weโre not seeing an overall improvement?
I think we havenโt really quite focused on the right things to produce truly exceptional natural coffees in a lot of countries. I think Counter Cultureโs still figuring that out as well; we donโt have all of the answers. I think weโve been able to create coffees that I feel are way better physically prepared, come in at a much more consistent moisture level, come in with basically the same consistency that you would see in a washed coffee from cup to cup, the same amount of quakers you see in a washed coffeeโso thatโs the goal. To me, natural coffees should deservingly receive their little step-brother status to washed coffees until we can really get them to where [washed] are at. Weโre working with producers to figure out how easy that process is. โIs it worth it?โ is a really good question. We ask, โDo you want to continue doing these?โ Itโs so much more work than washed coffee and it takes up much more space. But at the end of the day, theyโre like, โYes, we want to create these coffees. Iโm actually creating more and more of these coffees because I really like these coffees; the demand from our customers is really there.โ
Weโre talking about something so scarce, and there can be an argument over its quality, and the tastes can really be hit or missโand yet, why is there fresh hype around natural coffees?ย
I donโt think coffee tasters are trained really well on natural coffees. I think itโs challenging because all of the forms people are taught; like, if itโs fermented, you say itโs not specialty. And in the case of natural coffees, theyโre all fermentedโI donโt care what you say, they all have elements of fermentation. And acetic acid is higher in these coffees. To a certain extent as an industry, we havenโt really figured out the way that we want to talk and think about these coffees. For the most part, theyโre not processed as well so they should score lower. We havenโt quite gotten the right metric down yet.
But whenever we have a public tasting, theyโre always the coffee that are most talked about; theyโre always the one that inspires conversation with new tasters and new people. Iโd love to see more people talking about what it takes to create a really great natural coffee and appreciate the flavor profile for what it is.
D. Robert Wolcheck is a Sprudge contributor based in New York City. Read more D. Robert Wolcheck on Sprudge.ย