New York City is in the midst of a natural wine wave, and artisan wines from small producers are becoming a focus for sommeliers in Brooklyn and beyond. Itโs never been a more exciting time to drink (and eat) in the five boroughs, and even restaurants owned by major hotel groups are now focusing on lo-fi wines. We caught up with five of the latest natural wine and dining hotspots in the city.
Pheasant
The intersection of East Williamsburg and Greenpoint is witnessing a long overdue emergence of new restaurants along the Brooklyn Queens Expressway. Pheasant is a new restaurant owned by husband-and-wife team Vincent Fraissange (former executive chef at Isa) and Cat Alexander, a former photo producer who started a catering companyโLittle Pheasantโafter growing tired of food on set. The restaurant grew out of the catering company, which is operated out of the same building, and many of their fresh ingredients are grown in their backyard garden.
The short menu is inspired by coastal Mediterranean cuisine, with a wine list of predominantly French natural wines curated by Alexander herself. The space is bright, with stylish but minimal dรฉcor, lush green plants, and a truly stunning outdoor dining area that looks like the scene for a backyard wedding on Pinterest. โRestaurants are beautiful, but I wanted this to feel more like your friendโs place,โ says Alexander.
What to Order:
Tiago Teles Bairruda Branco “Raiz” + Fried and Raw Heirloom Tomato Salad with Chimichurri
Nicolas Renaud โLes Grillonsโ + Roasted Octopus
Correcaminos โRoad Runnerโ + Gnocchi with Chanterelles
Chez ma Tante ย
Last year, chefs Jake Leiber and Aidan OโNeal opened Chez ma Tante on a quiet tree-lined corner near the Greenpoint waterfront, a short walk from the hustle of Bedford Avenue. The two chefs met opening Cafe Altro Paradiso, and have created a short menu with elevated bar snacks, starters, and mains ranging in influence from English pub food like chips to international street food like falafel.
Everything about this place is unassumingโfrom the simple black and white sign out front to the white walls bare of any distracting artworkโbut I wouldnโt say Chez ma Tante is simple. The selection of wines by the glass is broad but approachable, and as Leiber puts it, โWe keep the wine list affordable because weโd rather you hang out here with your friends all night and order two or three bottles.โ
The restaurant has become a weeknight haunt for wine industry insiders, probably because itโs the kind of place you can spend hours grazing on small plates and tasting a wide variety of wines without breaking the bank. In this trendy neighborhood where a new bar opens every five minutes, it’s a relief to find a place that actually feels like a neighborhood bar.
What to Order:
German Gilabert Cava Brut Nature Reserva + Chips and Aioli
Julie Benau Picpoul de Pinet ย + Oysters and Parsley
Minimus Pinot Noir + Ham and Cheese with Charred Toast
Primoโs
Tribeca is definitely seeing a wine renaissance this year, with new openings like nearby restaurant Frenchetteโand the latest addition is Primoโs, a new bar in the stylish Frederick Hotel at the corner of West Broadway and Chambers. Owned by Aisa Blue Shelley (creator of Chinatown hotspot Mr. Fongโs), Primoโs Italian Art Deco interiors and natural wine list have made quite the stir since opening three months ago. Primarily a bar, Primoโs food menu is overshadowed by the immense cocktail offerings, including a variety of absinthe-based cocktails.
In some ways, Primoโs is the typical New York bar in a luxury hotelโhandsome suits grabbing a Martini over a few emails, and well-heeled hotel guests wandering in for a quick biteโbut without all the pretense and posturing. โMy version of a hotel bar is more relaxed than others in this neighborhood,โ says Shelley. The friendly staff, candlelight, and deep green velvet banquettes are inviting, and with a soundtrack ranging from mid-nineties West Coast hip-hop to live jazz, this bar is the perfect date spot any night of the week.
What to Order:
Milan Nestarec “380 Voltz” + Anchovy Garlic Dip and Vegetables
Lammidia โRosso Carboโ + the infamous Midnight Pasta
Marie et Vincent Tricot โLes Marcottesโ + Primoโs Pistachio Pernod Ice Cream
The Usual
The long-awaited permanent NYC restaurant by Alvin Cailan (owner of popular LA-based chain Eggslut) is finally here, in The Nolitan hotel at the corner of Kenmare and Elizabeth in the Nolita neighborhood of Manhattan. The Usualโs pink walls, simple white tables, and paintings of coastal scenes are elegantly understated, and create a warm environment that doesnโt compete with the food for your attention. The menu features elevated comfort food, with influences from the American South to Asian street foodโwhich Cailan credits to his entire kitchen team being the children of immigrants who grew up in different areas of the US.
Cailanโs sommelier brother Anthony (formerly DomaineLA and Bestia) oversees an extensive natural wine list that ranges from Old World classics to New World contemporaries. Despite managing a list with more than 150 wines already, Cailan is excited for his next projectโcurating the minibars in the hotelโs rooms: โThereโs so many cool canned wines or bottled cocktails on the market right now, and more wines are available to me now that Iโm buying in New York, versus LA.โ
What to Order:
Domaine Bobinet โHanamiโ + Cheddar and Chive Biscuits with Crab รttouffรฉe
Methode Sauvage โBloom Phaseโ + Tuna Tartare
Vins Contรฉs โPow Blop Wizzโ + Fried Chicken
Annicka
Brooklynโs most exciting new restaurant, Annicka, is a new seasonal American restaurant co-owned by Greenpoint Beer and Ale Co. and North Brooklyn Farms. The Greenpoint restaurant is the first in the city to open under Governor Cuomoโs new Farm Brewery license, meaning 100% of the restaurantโs food and beverages come from within New York Stateโincluding the beer, cider, wine, and liquor. The space is open and airy, with no real barrier between the kitchen and the dining area, and a colorful outdoor dining room facing out onto McCarren Park.
Executive Chef Christian Perkins (formerly Diner and Marlow & Daughters, where he spent some time as a butcher) created Annickaโs menu alongside โomnivorousโ chef Kenny Monroe and vegan chef Emma Jane Gonzalez. The result is a menu that features many vegan options, including house-made vegan butter and ice creams, alongside meat dishes in harmony.
The wine list is broader than you would expect and consists of primarily organic or sustainable wines. โIt was incredibly daunting at firstโto be limited to New York State winesโbut Iโve met every single winemaker on this list… that wouldnโt be possible with a traditional wine list,โ says GM Sasha Winters (of North Brooklyn Farms). Bar Annicka recently hosted its first winemaker dinner with Eminence Road, and is planning more events through the end of the year.
What to Order:
Lakewood Vineyards โBubbly Candeoโ + Watermelon Salad with Jalapeรฑos
Fjord Vineyards Cabernet Franc Rosรฉ + Fried Mushrooms
Eminence Road Riesling + Wedding Rice with Chicken
Kristin Barnes is a journalist and wine professional based in New York City, and the co-founder of Good Grapes TV. This is Kristin Barnes’ first feature for Sprudge.ย