Wine glasses in hand, mid-tasting, Languedoc winemaker Olivier Cohen and his father and I troop across the road from his winery to see a parcel of Cohenโs Merlot. Cohen stops at his mailbox on the way, discovering inside it something resembling an auburn, dirt-encrusted pebble, which he holds in his palm for me to examine.
โItโs a truffle!โ he reveals, chuckling. He explains that a friend is training a dog to hunt truffles; they had been practicing in the oaks that border his Merlot.
Goateed and quick to grin, Cohen resembles a young French Burt Reynolds. Itโs been five years since he set up his winery here in Argelliers, a small village in the scrubland north of Montpellier, and began releasing a small production of natural wines, often mixed-vintage blends, to steady acclaim throughout Franceโs natural wine bars. He clearly revels in the scenery and his adopted life as a vigneron, even on an overcast day in late January.
โMy wife and I are both from Nice,โ he explains as we cross the road. โThe first time we came here, we were on the road above the village where thereโs only forest, and we felt like we were at the end of the world. We said weโd never move this far out.โ
In reality, as they soon enough discovered, the city of Montpellier is just a 30-minute drive away, depending on traffic.
โNow that we live here, we almost never go down to Montpellier,โ he says, laughing. โBut it was reassuring to have a big city nearby.โ
Throughout seven hectares, Cohen cultivates Merlot, Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, and Cabernet Sauvignon, on mostly red-clay soil with limestone accents. The Merlot vineyard before us slopes gently to the northeast.
โWhatโs funny at Argelliers is, on the same parcel, we have very different soil typicities,โ he says, noting how much more limestone he encounters at the parcelโs uppermost edge.
Cohen points out a localized verdant stain, where he applied organic horse manure fertilizer, expecting its effects to spread out naturally over the years to the parcelโs lower slopes, like the rest of the soil nutrients. Cohen, who obtained organic certification in 2015, feels organics ought to be obligatory in viticulture.
โNot something we do to add value to wines,โ he adds. โPeople [proudly] say, โOh, Iโm an organic vigneron,โ and we say, โWell, happily, yes! What else?โโ
I first encountered Cohen in June 2015 at the โVivent les Vins Libres!โ wine tasting, hosted by restaurateur Gilles Benard beside the Parc de Buttes Chaumont in Paris. Cohen was pouring samples of his debut vintage, alongside many more established and renowned natural winemakers, including Antoine Arena and Jean Foillard. Cohen wasnโt the only young winemaker present, but he was the youngest, distinguishing himself not only with his debut wineโa tightly coiled, reduced, but promising blend of Syrah, Merlot, and Carignan called โRonds Vertsโโbut with his smiling familiarity in selling and describing it. He was at ease among Parisians and fellow vignerons alike in a way few totally-new faces are at such tastings.
Part of it is attributable to Cohenโs significant natural charisma. The other part is probably due to his unusually well-rounded path to winemaking, which included experience in both natural wine retail and the vineyards and cellars of legendary domaines throughout France.
Heโs aware of his good fortune in this regard.
โI discuss with older winemakers, who see me start to sell wine and make things happen after only five years,โ he says, recalling a conversation he had at the recent โLes Vins de Mes Amisโ tasting in Montpellier. โI said, โYour generation benefitted ours with the possibility of selling wine, with this visibility [in the market].’โ
Cohen had no roots in the wine business. His father, Pascal, supported the family with a store that sold jeans in a shopping mall in Nice. Upon finishing his studies at lycรฉe, Cohen prepared to enter business school, before deciding instead to study law. But there his studies were soon threatened by the schoolโs proximity to La Part des Anges, the renowned Nice natural wine shop and wine bar run by veteran caviste Olivier Labarde on rue Gubernatis.
Studying informally under Labarde, Cohen acquired a passion for the subculture of natural wine.
โI was failing my studies, and I told Olivier [Labarde], โYou should hire me because I spend more time at your place than at the school!’โ says Cohen.
Labarde agreedโbut on the condition that Cohen first obtain his law degree. So it was that Cohen graduated from law school and promptly began working at Niceโs premier natural wine destination. After a year, with Labardeโs blessing, he left to do internships with a succession of storied wine domaines: Domaine Valette in the Mรขconnais, Domaine Arena in Corsica, Domaine Rivaton in the Roussillon, Thierry Allemand in Cornas.
He found himself drawn to the idea of becoming a winemaker.
โThe problem was, we were from Nice!โ says Pascal Cohen, as we make our way back to the winery. โAt the beginning, we were in conflict. Then quickly we took his side and helped him.โ
Cohen credits his father, Labarde, and Cecille Valette with orienting him towards making wine rather than serving it.
โItโs a good balance for me because when Iโm in a place that serves wine, Iโm not serious. I think it would have been too much for me. Viticulture is good for that. You have the time to be outside, to not drink during the week, to take your time.โ
Cohen still mulls over his decision, last summer, to refrain from plowing in mid-season to avoid compacting his vineyardsโ soils.
โIf Iโd gone through with the tractor, we would have lost fewer grapes. I donโt regret it for the soil health,โ he says, โBut I regret it for the yield.โ
In 2018, a banner year for yields in much of France, Cohen brought in just 18 hectolitres per hectare, with big losses to mildew. The yearโs wines sit in tankโall fiberglass save one steelโand barrel in Cohenโs surprisingly spacious winery. He acquired the winery and its vines in one purchase, from a retiring winemaker called Bernard Boubal, whose domaineโs sign, bearing the name โMas Ginestra,โ still hangs at the entry to Cohenโs driveway.
Partly to counterbalance this yearโs low yields, Cohen recently released several cuvรฉes of unfiltered, unsulfured nรฉgoรงiant wines, a project heโs entitled โLa Dรฉferlante.โ
The range includes a red blended from the same Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault grapes in both 2017 and 2018; a Chenin from Limoux; and an oddball Chenin-Syrah-Grenache rosรฉ blended from portions of the two aforementioned grape purchases. (Cohen is, incidentally, a minor specialist in unfiltered rosรฉs, having released twoโone lighter, one darkerโfor several previous vintages. In 2018, a darkly colored vintage, he decided his domaine wine musts were too dark for rosรฉ production.)
The curious blend of his 2018 โLa Dรฉferlanteโ rosรฉ was essentially an improvisation, one which illuminates Cohenโs wider tendency to employ mixed-vintage blending. His tanks of 2017 Chenin from Limoux are, at time of writing, lingering over their last 4g of residual sugar. Meanwhile, he had a tank of short carbonic macerated Syrah and Grenache that was totally dry. It occurred to him that blending the two would yield a wine with under 2g of residual sugar, which is to say, one that is technically dry, and liable to be relatively stable in the bottle without sulfur or filtration (at least compared to one at 4g residual sugar). He tried the blend of Chenin, Grenache, and Syrah, liked it, found it stable, and figured, “Why not?”
โItโs not always an objective, to assemble vintages,โ he says. โItโs not just a decision of taste. Itโs also a vinification decision. If we want to skip filtrationโand more marked interventionsโwe should leave ourselves the liberty and the choice elsewhere.โ
Today Cohen aims to divide his production between happy near-accidents like his โDรฉferlanteโ rosรฉ, and his domaine wines, in which he lately seeks more precision. To this end, heโs not averse to adding a milligram or two of sulfur at racking or bottling, where he deems it necessary. Increasingly he experiments with long-aged versions of his wines, as with his recently released โRond Noirs – รlรฉvage Prolongรฉ,โ a fulsome blend of Grenache, Merlot, Carignan, and Syrah from both 2016 and 2017.
Today, as a light rain begins to fall outside the wide doors of his winery, we barrel-sample a 2018 blend of Mourvรจdre and Merlot from vines situated behind the building. The wine is dry already, forthright and pure, with supple tannins and a wholesome, chewy black fruit. I venture it has the calmness and the gravity of the work of a much more experienced winemaker.
โI have the impression the wines are gaining in length on the palate,โ agrees Cohen. โItโs four years now that weโre handling the viticulture. I think that starts to have a resonance in the wines.โ
Thereโs a pause, we swirl our glasses, sniffing, listening to the rain on the driveway.
โAt least, I hope it does,โ he adds, grinning at his father. โIf not, weโre putting ourselves through hell for nothing! So if it isnโt the case, I donโt even want to know.โ