Prenzlauer Berg was once synonymous with punks, squatters, revolutionaries, and political activists. Today, its radical edge has softened; its adults are more likely to be spotted wielding ice creams than Molotov cocktails. Despite the influx of prams over the past three decades, theย northern cultural heart of Berlin beats loudly, and many love the areaย for its green streets, strong cafe culture, good restaurants, grand Altbauย apartment buildings, and rich, multi-layered history. Prenzlauer Berg is also arguably the birthplace of Third Wave coffee in Berlin, and home to the high-caffeine-density block affectionately known as the Kaffeeviertel (the Coffee Quarter), with cafes dotting the Kiez, perfect for cafe hopping. With oodles left to discover, this guide starts withย four of Prenzlauer Bergโs trail-blazing best.
Bonanza Coffee
Coffee as Berliners know it today sprung from the work of Bonanza Coffee (the cafe formerly known as Bonanza Coffee Heroes). Bonanza was started in 2006 by Yumi Choi and Kiduk Reus, who met in Rotterdam, and found Berlin at the time to be a coffee no manโs land. Bonanza blossomed with the establishment of itsย own roastery in Wedding, and the duo developed strong ideas about ethical practices and roasting stylesโi.e., light, light, lightโin a country that traditionally favors a dark roast.
Today, Bonanza beans can be spotted across the city and overseas, though the best way to sample them is in Bonanzaโs chic two-room cafe space on Oderberger Strasse (close by the popular weekend flea market Mauerpark), whose outside seats become prime real estate in the summer. Featuringย a sleek, black Slayer Espresso machine and an eye-grabbing brew bar in the center, Bonanzaโs fine baristas and lab-like attention to detail are matched in Berlin perhaps only by The Barnย roasteryโs hushed, white walls (it’s another Berlin coffee institution, over in Mitte). Celebrating its 10th year in 2016, Bonanza remains daring and adventurous, forging ahead. For example:ย Berliners are currently rejoicing, as Bonanzaโs gorgeous new 300-square-meter roastery and cafe opened on Adalbertstrasse in Kreuzberg just this past April.
No Fire No Glory
Fellow Berlin pioneerย No Fire No Gloryย was opened in 2004 by owner Ralf Berlitโone of the eventual forces behind the now-seven-cafe-strong Berlin Coffee Society and its annual Barista Campโbefore the cafe moved from Friedrichshain to Prenzlauer Berg in 2011. Today, No Fire No Glory has ample outside space for people-watching; inside, it lures with a glamorous speakeasy vibe: an antique casino slot machine sits against one wall, a horseshoe hangs over the doorway, the liquor cabinet is well-stocked, and guests sit on leather couches sipping cold drip brews from Mad Men tumblers, or on stools that line the counter, chatting withย the friendly baristas like they were therapists.
But there are no gambles taken here: guests fall head over heels for the consistently excellent coffee. No Fire No Glory is loyal to Denmarkโs Coffee Collectiveย roastery,ย with options including AeroPress, Hario V60, Kalita Wave, cold drip, and an espresso menu from the Kees van der Westen Spirit Triplette.
Cafรฉ CK
A stone’s throw away, east of Prenzlauer Allee, Cafรฉ CK is the sweet, shaggy cousinย to the slick ambience of other Prenzlauer Berg spaces. The ownersโAmericanย Cory Andreen, the 2012 World Cup Tasters Champion, and German Kerstin Winkelbauerโopened CK in 2009ย and immediatelyย set the bar high.
CK remains a citywide favorite, loved for its combination of serious coffee and relaxed atmosphere. Regular cuppings and tastingsย drawย many from across Berlin. A side room sees young folk spilling over couches and laptops, while in theย back, guests laze away an afternoon over private tables. The best moveย is to grab something to read around the corner from Saint George’s, one of Berlinโs best English-language bookstores, and nab an outside seat with a slice of banana bread and one of CKโs espresso tonics, cold-draft coffees on tap, filter coffee (AeroPress or Hario V60), or flat white from international roasters such as Norwayโs Solberg & Hansen.
Godshot
If youโve made it this far, youโve come to understand that Prenzlauer Berg representsย something of a Kaffee K-hole. One more danger spot is Godshot, named forย that elusive, perfect espresso thatย may hit you once in a lifetime. Opened by Kai-Uwe Beyer seven and a half years ago, Godshotโs unpretentious air disguises its place at the vanguard of Berlinโs Third Wave scene. From its cafe and neighboring training space, baristas have come through, learned, and spread their wings across the city, pulling shots from Kreuzberg to Potsdam and beyond.
Accumulated over time, the Godshot dรฉcor includesย a relaxed mishmash of classy, soft leather couches and vintage chairs that, all together, feels like a giant, chic living roomโone with a lower floor and mezzanine, a stack of โMicky Mausโ comics for the kids, and a classically Berlin minimal-techno soundtrack that sets it apart from the cityโs other coffee shops. (Also fun: bring Australians and watch them lose their coolย at the sight of Tim Tam biscuits spilling out of a jar on the counter top.) Espresso coffee comes from Beyerโs latest custom-built machine, with Third Wave roast options via Phoenix Coffee Roasters from Dresden, Backyard Coffee from Frankfurt am Main, andย an Italian roast via Manaresi Caffรจย inย Florence. A self-taught barista, Beyer is open-minded and ever-curious, ready to buck trendsโfor example, recently bringing in Phoenix Coffeeโs Ethiopia/Peru Deep Red, a complex, very dark and creamy roast with a helluva kick.
Want more Berlin coffee fun? Check out our guides to Mitte and Kreuzberg.
Annabel Brady-Brownย is a freelance journalist based in Berlin, writing for ExBerliner and more. Read more Annabel Brady-Brown on Sprudge.
Photos by Septimus Brope.