ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge

In the early 1990s, full-sun coffee production was introduced to Vietnam, and the coffee industry there has been growing like a weed ever sinceโ€”the country now accounts for a staggering 19ย percent of the worldโ€™s total coffee output. This is thanks in large part to the practice of clear-cutting huge swathes of land and planting high-yield, chemical-fertilizer-dependent coffee; between 2005 and today alone, Vietnam doubled its yearly coffee exports with this method. But perhaps most striking is not how much coffee is grown in Vietnam, but how much of that coffee is low quality. Because while a distant second in total coffee production to Brazil, Vietnam grows far and away the most Robusta of any country on the planet.

Some coffee trickles back into the country and ends up brewed via Phinโ€”the flimsy metal top-hat-like dripper found most commonly at your neighborhood pho or banh mi jointโ€”then mixed with sweetened condensed milk, resulting in what coffee drinkers in the West think of as โ€œtraditionalโ€ Vietnamese coffee. Much of the country’s Robusta outputย is sold to Nestlรฉโ€”Vietnam is Nescafรฉโ€™s top supplier.

Does this mean that all Vietnamese coffee is either low quality and destined to be chain-drunk by cubicle workers out of red plastic packets or otherwiseย the color, texture, and taste of chocolate milk, and that there is no such thing as high-quality Vietnamese coffee? Youโ€™d be excused for thinkingย so.

But in fact, there is. Although less than 2 percent of coffee grown in Vietnam is Arabica, a small community of farmers in the Lam Dong province of the countryโ€™s high-altitude center have committed to it over the past five years, spurred largely by a burgeoningย scene of cafes and roasteries in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon). This is a guide to some of those places, all of which, in driving demand for quality overย quantity, are making a difference in the way Vietnamese coffee is grown, consumed, and represented.

The Workshop

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
The Workshop

The Workshop, carved out of a block of top-floor apartments in a building just off downtown HCMCโ€™s central walking street in 2014, was the cityโ€™s first specialty roaster. Its founders believe in a principal of transparencyโ€”removing as many filters as possible from between theย customer and a coffee. This includes sweet milk; as policy, the Workshop doesnโ€™t serve the stuff and instead directs sugar-seekers to one of the countless coffee stalls that line the cityโ€™s sidewalks. For those who stay,ย the options range fromย espresso toย any number of brew devices, includingย Wave,ย V60,ย AeroPress, andย syphon. According to co-founder Nguyen Tuan Dung, the Workshop understands you canโ€™t change a personโ€™s taste preferences by forcing newness on them but ratherย aims to instill in customers an appreciation and respect for their coffees and the people who grow them. The commitment to theย shop’sย farmers, however, stretches far beyond buying coffeeโ€”the roastery provides improvements to infrastructure like new drying racks and pulping machines in order to elevate the overall quality of Vietnamese coffee production. And selfies are welcome: the space is gorgeous.

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Bosgaurus Coffee Roasters

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Bosgaurus, Giesen roasters in background

At the end of a road flanked by high-rise apartment buildings, some so new their glass is still caked with construction dust, liesย Bosgaurus Coffee Roasters. Itโ€™s home to both the first and currently reigning Vietnamese Barista Champion, Tr’รขn Hรขn, as well as the first and reigning Vietnamese AeroPress Champion, Le Dan Nha Thi. It’s also home to two Giesens, which roast all coffee used at the shop. The space also houses two separate coffee bars, one on each floor, with the upstairsย used as an educational tool where a person can try their hand at dialing in coffee however they like it, whether with a hand-drip apparatus or Nuova Simonelli Aurelia II.ย The downstairsย bar was designed in deference to traditional Vietnamese coffee bars, which are square; itโ€™s low and straight to encourage interaction between baristas and customers. Bos gaurus, if you’re wondering, is the worldโ€™s tallest species of cow, an elusive, rare type of cattle native to Southeast Asia, with long, milk-white legsโ€”majestic, not unlike the shop that bears its name.

Bosgaurus Coffee Roasters is located at Saigon Pearl, Phฦฐแปng 22. Follow them on Facebookย and Instagram.

Klasik Coffee Roasters

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Ly Ngoc Thiep, Klasik

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudgeLy Ngoc Thiep founded Klasik Coffee Roastersย this past January after receiving her coffee education in the United States in 2014. She studied roasting at Boot Coffee in San Rafael, California and traveled to Kansas for a Q Certification. A HCMCย native, she returned thereย after spending time in New York, but, after being surrounded by the dynamic coffee cultures on America’s East and West coasts, was discouraged by what her city had to offer. The only place offering high-quality Arabica at the time was The Workshop, and she was desperate for another space that served high-quality international coffees. Now, Klasik fills that void. It acts in part as a Hario distributor and a roastery that sources Vietnamese coffees as well as those from around the worldโ€”Thiep says she has a preference for Ethiopian beans but did her best while in the US to drink Panama Geisha as often as possible. Sheโ€™s now sharing her knowledge with the coffee community in HCMC, running workshops of her own. โ€œPeople come together to build a market and community,โ€ she says. “Weโ€™re working together to make Vietnamese coffee.โ€

Klasik Coffee Roasters is located atย 40 Mแบกc Thแป‹ BฦฐแปŸi, Bแบฟn Nghรฉ. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebook and Instagram.

Drago Specialty Coffee

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Drago Specialty Coffeeย is small, both inside and outโ€”I walked past it three times before spotting the sign bearing the roasteryโ€™s name covertly affixed to a downtown buildingโ€™s facade. At only three months old, on paper itโ€™s the youngest of the recent up-cropping of specialty shops, but Drago is more than it seems. Located up a short, blanch-white staircase decorated with grounds-filled cups, Drago is actually a branch of a much larger and older commercial coffee roastery called Nam Long, which primarily produces a slightly more refined version of darkly roasted Phin-grade Robusta. Drago acts as an experimental arm of the company, roasting higher-quality coffees in smaller batches and blending Vietnamese and international beans in unusual combinationsโ€”Vietnamese Robusta blended with Ethiopia, anyone? When I visited, Drago staff were gathered around the shopโ€™s lone table cupping coffees with help from Klasikโ€™s Thiep. Since it was a weekend, and the majority of Dragoโ€™s customers are business people going to and from nearby office buildings, it didnโ€™t hurt to shut down for an hour in order to do what Drago does best: experiment.

Saigon Coffee Roastery

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Saigon Coffee Roastery

Saigon Coffee Roastery is exactly what it sounds like, with a catalogue of small-batch, mostly Vietnamese coffee on offer. Vo Phap founded the company in response to the ubiquity of low-quality Phin coffee in his city, the worst of which is made upย partly by fillers like soy and cornmealโ€”lax government regulation and low consumer standards allows for this noncoffee to pass, provided itโ€™s served with enough sugar. Phap was influenced by the design of Italian espresso bars, and in little less than a year has carved out his own interpretation from a space above what was once an arcade and market. He doesnโ€™t see the otherย new roasteries popping up in HCMC as competition, but asย evidence that real Vietnamese coffee is on its way toward a decade of positive growth.

Saigon Coffee Roastery is located at 151/5 ฤแป“ng KhแปŸi, Bแบฟn Nghรฉ. Follow them on Facebookย and Instagram.

Shin Coffee

ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Shin
ho chi minh city vietnam drago saigon coffee roastery the workshop shin coffee bosgaurus coffee roasters klasik coffee roasters guide cafe sprudge
Shin training center

Shin Coffee began as an idea five years ago, andย after breaking ground in 2015 it already has two outposts in downtown HCMC, just a five-minute walk from each other. The newer of the spaces is also the larger, occupying three stories in a building across the street and around the corner from some of the cityโ€™s busiest hotels. The intent here is to draw on a rapidly expanding base of foreign tourists; Shin wants to make sure it’s the first experience a visitor has with Vietnamese coffee. And although the spaces are relatively new, Shinโ€™s founder, Nguyen Huu Long, isnโ€™t new to the industry. He took his first job in coffee at a cafe in townย as an 18-year-old, and has spent years bouncing between Vietnam and Japan, where he steeped in the coffee culture while working in cafes and as a translator. Now the planย is to pass on some of thatย knowledge: the newer Shinโ€™s third floor is undergoing renovations that will transform it into a full-blown coffee training center, not unlike at Bosgaurus. Its wall is emblazoned with a coffee-variety family tree, its laminate branches catching light as they extend.

Shin Coffee has twoย locations in Ho Chi Minh City. Visit their official website and follow them on Facebookย and Instagram.

Michael Light (@MichaelPLight)ย has written previously for GOOD Magazine and Wagโ€™s Revue. Read more Michael Light onย Sprudge.

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